Think Bordeaux is all about old-school reds and rigid traditions? Think again. Julia Lambeth DipWSET takes us on a whistle-stop tour of how this legendary wine region is evolving—from climate-conscious grape swaps to modern winemaking styles and even natural wine certifications. Bordeaux is proving it can move with the times, and Julia’s here to share the highlights.
There are exciting things happening in Bordeaux. Yes, really! Now, this may surprise some people, as Bordeaux is often considered a very traditional region, with lots of high-end wines in classic styles. And while those wines are still going strong, there are also changes taking place. Some of the changes are in response to climate change, others due to commercial pressure or different demands from consumers. So, what does that look like?
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New grape varieties in Bordeaux
In 2020, the law changed to permit six additional grape varieties in Bordeaux (including varieties such as Alvarinho and Touriga Nacional). The main reason for permitting these changes was to find grapes that will make quality wines given the changing climate in the region. Currently they are only permitted to be up to 10% of a final blend labelled as Bordeaux (not for subregions), and some producers are starting to use these.
Others are looking at the potential of PIWI grape varieties (From the German word for ‘fungus- resistant’, PilzWiderstandfahig). These are hybrid grape varieties that have been created to be resistant to fungal diseases, and which therefore reduce the need for fungicide. In a region that is vulnerable to downy mildew, this has potential to have both a big commercial impact (less sprays needed) and environmental impact (less chemicals applied, and tractor passes). The challenge with PIWIs is that they are not so well known, although they do have appealing names such as Floreal or Souvignier Gris.
Some producers are increasing plantings of grape varieties that were once considered to be of lesser importance such as Malbec and Carménère. Over recent decades these have proven themselves to have the potential for high quality wine, both in France and other countries, and are also being considered as useful blending components in a warming climate. Château Tournafeuille, for example, do a blend of 50% Malbec and 50% Merlot in their C315 wine.
More dry white wine, rosé and orange
Dry white wine has been around for a long time in Bordeaux, and is renowned for its high quality, but its prevalence is also increasing. This is partly due to the decline in popularity of sweet wines in Sauternes, which is devastating to all of us sweet wine fans, and may mean that some of the vineyards will eventually be dug up, but is also a trend being seen in many other sweet wine regions.
This has been pushing producers to try their hand at dry styles of Semillon with great results. Semillon is well known for its potential to make different styles of wine and for its capacity to age. Even top estates such as Château d’Yquem are experimenting with their ‘Y d’Yquem’ wine (although it still has to be labelled as Bordeaux Blanc). But even in the Medoc some Chateaux are seeking out white wines, whether by buying land in other parts of the region such as Entre-deux-Mers, or making ‘blanc de noir’ wines from existing black grapes such as Château Desmirail. There are also rumours about a Medoc Blanc appellation in the works, so watch this space! Rosé and orange wine production is small, but popular and growing, with some producers selling their entire stocks at cellar door or direct to consumer.
Organic and biodynamic farming
26% of the region is now certified organic. For a region that faces significant mildew challenges (due to its relatively high humidity), this is impressive, as the main way to battle downy mildew is through fungicide sprays. It should be noted that organic grape growing does not mean that no spraying is permitted; instead, copper-based sprays are widely used. However, that may change with conditions such as those found in the 2024 vintage, where some growers just had to use non-organic sprays to battle the higher mildew pressure from the higher amount of rainfall. For those that stuck with the organic methods, it necessitated more sprays, and so more tractor passes (which can lead to soil compaction) and a high level of copper usage. This brings its own challenges, as it can lead to a build-up of copper in the soil, and it is also not a great product for vineyard workers to deal.
Some producers are looking at biocontrol options instead, which means adding yeast to out compete the fungal spores, but that will not have negative effects on the grape. These could be interesting solutions for the future but are currently more experimental and considered by some to be less effective.
Adjustments to winemaking
In line with a focus on organic and sustainable viticulture, winemakers are also looking at how they can adjust their winemaking processes to reduce additions. Low and no sulphur is an option being looked at by several producers.
Château Mauvinon now only add a small amount at bottling and put this amount on the back level of the wine, alongside legal permitted maximum levels, to highlight the contrast for their consumers. It takes some courage to fly in the face of conventional wisdom, and a scrupulous approach to hygiene in the winery and the health of the fruit, but the result is wines which have a greater purity of fruit concentration. Another adjustment is to the oak used. While it is still possible to find big red wines with lots of new oak barrique influence, the style is shifting slightly. From unoaked styles, to just a smaller proportion of new, emphasis on medium or light toasting, or use of 400l demi-muids, the changes are perhaps not huge, but the shift in styles is noticeable. And of course, there are experimentations with clay amphora as well, where winemakers can find the influence of gentle oxidation without oak flavour.
Vin Méthode Nature
Certified natural wine in Bordeaux? It’s a thing! This certification, introduced in France in 2020, might surprise some, but Bordeaux producers are embracing it. And it doesn’t mean funky or faulty wines, just clean, fresh wines made to the principles outlined in the certification. To qualify, grapes must be hand-picked, certified organic, use ambient yeast and no other winemaking additions or interventions. So far it just looks to be one or two wines within a range, such as the Château Chillac ‘La Cuvée de nos Pères’, and is certainly not everywhere, but it will be interesting to see if the trend grows.
Oenotourism
To supplement income (as sales are a challenge for quite a few estates), several producers are looking at developing their oenoturism side, with rooms available to rent in Châteaux, or Gite accommodations available to hire. Supplementary services include tastings, dinner with the owners, or even a horse-drawn carriage tour of the vineyards! Fancy staying in the rolling hills of Entre-Duex-Mers, which the Bordelais refer to as their answer to Tuscany? Certainly worth considering for your next wine-based holiday!
