Malbec might be a household name these days, but how well do most of us really know it?
For World Malbec Day, we sat down with Dr Laura Catena, Managing Director of Bodega Catena Zapata, founder of the Catena Institute of Wine, and WSET's Honorary President, to go deeper. She spoke to us about the grape’s evolution in Argentina, how altitude can shape flavour, and why it’s time to rethink what Malbec can do in the glass and at the table.
Laura will also be joining us in person to address WSET's graduating Level 4 Diploma in Wines students at their ceremony in London later this month. But before that, she took a moment to reflect on the grape that helped put Argentine wine on the map, and the journey that brought it there.
How have you seen the perception of Malbec evolve over the years, both in Argentina and globally?
When I started helping out my father, I was still a student and he would say, “Laurita, please help us sell some wine because nobody knows Argentine wine.” I would go with a bottle of Malbec and people would say, “Oh, Malbec, I don’t think I’ve ever had it.” Then they would drink it and say, “Oh, this is fantastic, it tastes wonderful,” but “I’m sorry, I cannot list it in my store because nobody knows what Malbec is and I won’t be able to sell it.”
That was the 1990s — not so long ago. Today, any store has a Malbec, any restaurant has a Malbec. So, I think that the perception has gone from unknown to very much loved and sought after.
What are some of the biggest trends shaping the future of Malbec?
At first, I was selling Malbec as the Argentine grape. But it was after Malbec became famous that I started doing a lot of research into its history. I was joined by my sister Adrianna Catena, who has a PhD in history from Oxford, and she did a lot of research.
What I realised was that Malbec was this world-famous grape that had been around for 2,000 years. It was famous in Bordeaux — at the time of the classification, there was more Malbec planted than Cabernet.
The reason I’m answering your question this way is because I think part of the perception shift is that Malbec went from being seen as a new trend to being recognised as an ancient variety with real heritage. It has different flavours depending on which region in Argentina it comes from, or if it comes from France. The Malbec from Cahors, for example, has become better known since Malbec gained international recognition.
The renaissance of Malbec was brought about by this acknowledgment of its ancient history and the fact that the grape variety has been around for such a long time. It dates back to the same era as Pinot Noir, and it’s older than Cabernet Sauvignon.
So yes — the history, the regional expressions, and the recognition of its potential for fine wine and age-worthiness have all shaped how people now view Malbec.
The famous high-altitude Adrianna vineyard.
If someone is trying Malbec for the first time, what should they expect in terms of flavour and style?
There are maybe three directions for Malbec from Argentina.
You have blends of altitude. In Argentina, we have very different climates between 900 and 1,500 metres elevation. These vineyards might only be an hour apart, but in France, to go from one to the other in climate terms, you’d have to drive for seven hours — so you couldn’t blend them.
In Argentina, you can. For example, the Catena Malbec — we call it the classic — blends riper components from slightly warmer climates and sandy soils with more mineral, floral, high-acidity components from the very high altitude. I call it the Chanel No. 5 approach — all these components come together so well.
Another style is from a specific region — we make appellation Malbecs from La Consulta or Lunlunta, for example.
And a third style is old vines, like the Malbec Argentino with the four women on the label.
I’d tell someone to try one of each and see what they think. Try many producers — and try one from Cahors. That way you can taste what Malbec is like in France, which is very different.
What’s a common misconception about Malbec that you’d like to clear up?
That it is just one thing. Saying “I’m drinking a Malbec” is like saying “I’m eating dark chocolate” — there’s huge diversity.
Also, not many people have tasted aged Malbec, and it can age beautifully — just like Cabernet Sauvignon. I’d recommend finding an older bottle to try or buying one now and cellaring it for 10 or 20 years.
What’s your earliest memory of drinking or being around Malbec? Was there a specific moment that made you fall in love with the grape?
In Argentina, it was traditional for a child who behaved well enough to sit at the adult table to get a small splash of Malbec in some soda water. I was five, and I remember that drink so vividly.
But the moment I truly fell in love with Malbec was later — when we made our Malbec from Lunlunta in the early 1990s. The vines were planted in 1922. I’d been drinking great wine with my father at university, but when I tasted that Malbec, I thought, “We’ve done it — this can make waves in the world.”
That wine changed history for me. It was our 1994 Catena Malbec.
Laura Catena and her father Nicolás.
What’s the most unexpected food pairing you’ve tried with Malbec, and did it work?
I’m obsessed with Indian food — especially chicken tikka masala. Malbec’s soft tannins and touch of richness work beautifully with a bit of spice and creaminess.
People usually pair spicy food with beer or Riesling, but Malbec can be amazing. I’d really encourage people to try it.
You’ve created a restaurant, Angelica Cocina Maestra, with a “wine first” approach to food pairing. Where did that idea come from?
Honestly, I don’t always have time to cook, so I often start with the wine I want to drink and make sure the food doesn’t clash.
When we were planning our restaurant, we thought, let’s flip the script. Everyone gets the same seasonal food (with a vegetarian option), but you choose the wine flight. One of my favourites is the “rollercoaster” flight — red to rosé to sparkling to sweet and back again.
At first, I thought, nobody would order this. But everybody does. It’s fun and it works. Try it at home.
If you had to describe Malbec in three words, what would they be?
A big hug.
We have a wine named after my great-grandmother Nicasia, who was a big, warm woman. When she hugged you, you had no problems in the world. I always say that a great Malbec should feel like that — a warm, loving embrace.
As WSET Honorary President, what excites you about supporting wine education?
Wine education creates access, confidence and connection. It opens opportunities for people around the world to fall in love with wine and take it seriously — whether they’re in the industry or simply passionate about learning. I’m proud to be part of that journey.
Thanks to Dr Laura Catena for sharing her time and insights with us. We look forward to welcoming her to London later this month as she joins WSET's Diploma graduates in celebrating their achievements.
