If you think of Bordeaux, you probably think of Cabernet Sauvignon. Burgundy? Pinot Noir. Rioja? Tempranillo. These grapes have become shorthand for their regions, shaping the way we talk about wine. But vineyards hold more than just the headline acts.
Tucked among the rows of better-known varieties are grapes that have played a quiet but important role for centuries. Some add structure or freshness, others bring complexity or longevity. A few have nearly disappeared, overshadowed by more commercially successful varieties, but they still appear in blends or, occasionally, as varietal wines.
Here are five grape varieties you might not hear about as often, but that help define some of the world’s most famous wine regions.
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Muscadelle
Aromatic lift in Bordeaux’s white blends
Region: Bordeaux
Famous for: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon
Muscadelle plays a quiet but important role in Bordeaux’s dry and sweet white wines, adding floral, grapey aromatics to blends. Though it makes up only a small percentage, its perfume enhances both Pessac-Léognan’s dry whites and the botrytised wines of Sauternes and Monbazillac.
Beyond Bordeaux, Muscadelle has found a home in Australia’s Rutherglen region, where it contributes to rich fortified wines, developing intense dried fruit and caramel notes with age. Though naturally low in acidity and prone to disease, it occasionally appears as a light, floral varietal wine in Southwest France.
Graciano
Tough to grow, but Rioja wouldn’t be the same without it
Region: Rioja
Famous for: Tempranillo, Garnacha
Graciano is a late-ripening, low-yielding grape that contributes fresh acidity, firm tannins, and deep colour to Rioja blends. Though it makes up just over 2 percent of black grape plantings in the region, it plays an important role in Reserva and Gran Reserva wines, helping them retain structure and age gracefully.
Highly drought-resistant, Graciano thrives in Rioja’s warm climate but remains challenging to grow. Its susceptibility to fungal diseases and small yields have historically limited plantings, leading many growers to favour more reliable varieties like Tempranillo and Garnacha.
When fully ripe, Graciano offers concentrated black fruit flavours with floral and spice notes, but less ripe fruit can show a leafy, herbal character. While traditionally used in blends, a growing number of producers are experimenting with single-varietal expressions, highlighting its structure and ageing potential.
Beyond Rioja, Graciano is planted in Navarra, Languedoc-Roussillon (where it is known as Morrastel), and even parts of Australia and California, where winemakers appreciate its acidity and resilience in warm conditions.
Red wine, ageing in barrels
Aligoté
Burgundy’s other white grape
Region: Burgundy
Famous for: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir
Aligoté has long been grown in Burgundy but is often overshadowed by the region’s more widely planted white grape, Chardonnay. It produces high-acid, lean white wines that are typically light-bodied, with flavours of citrus, green apple, and sometimes a subtle mineral character.
While Aligoté has historically been used in simpler wines—including as the base for Kir, the classic Burgundian aperitif—it is capable of producing higher-quality wines when grown in favourable sites where it can achieve full ripeness. However, as prime vineyard locations are often reserved for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, top-quality examples remain relatively rare.
One exception is the village of Bouzeron, which is the only Burgundy appellation dedicated specifically to Aligoté, recognising its potential for producing fresh, well-balanced wines with notable depth.
Sylvaner
An overlooked Alsace classic
Region: Alsace
Famous for: Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris
Once widely planted in Alsace, Sylvaner has declined in favour of more commercially reliable varieties such as Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, which are easier to grow. Despite this, it remains a source of high-quality, good-value wines, particularly from older vines, many of which are now over 40 years old.
Although Sylvaner (Or Silvaner in Germany) is now mostly used for regional-level wines, it still holds a special place in Grand Cru Zotzenberg, which remains the only Alsace Grand Cru that permits its use. Here, it can produce wines with greater depth, complexity, and ageing potential, demonstrating that in the right conditions, it can offer more than just simple, early-drinking styles.
The slopes of Alsace
The lesser-grown grapes of Champagne
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Meunier may rule Champagne, but they’re not alone
Region: Champagne
Famous for: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier
While the big three (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier) define modern Champagne, four other permitted grape varieties, Petit Meslier, Arbane, Pinot Blanc and Fromenteau (Pinot Gris), still have a place in the region’s vineyards. Though grown in tiny quantities, they offer a glimpse into Champagne’s past and continue to feature in select blends and niche cuvées.
Each of these varieties brings something distinct:
- Petit Meslier retains high acidity even in warmer years, making it useful for balancing ripeness.
- Arbane once nearly extinct contributes floral aromatics and delicate texture.
- Pinot Blanc adds roundness and subtle fruit flavours though it is more commonly found in Alsace.
- Fromenteau (Pinot Gris) lends rich texture and stone fruit notes but its tendency to oxidise has made it less common.
While their presence in mainstream production is limited, some producers incorporate them into blends or highlight them in cuvées such as Champagne Laherte’s ‘Les 7’ which features all seven permitted varieties.
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